Sango Bay, Scotland

Gosh some of these single track sections are so narrow they could barely be called laneways. With rocky hills to one side and lochs on the other, it makes for some very difficult navigation. It eventually reaches moorland and whilst the track is no wider, the sense of space and views of the lochs and seas in the distance are magnificent.

Taking an east to southeast direction, I arrived at a junction where I took a left turn and passed through Newton, Unapool and over Kylesku Bridge that crossed the Loch Cairnbawn (a sea inlet of Eddrachillis Bay) to the west which splits into two lochs to the east; Loch Gleann Dubh bearing east and Loch Glencoul bearing southeast which then runs into Loch Beag. 

Making a stop in the village of Kylesku, I took a boat-trip to Loch Beag so I could see Eas a' Chual Aluinn, the highest waterfall in the UK. At 658ft (200m) the waterfall has a sheer vertical drop into the glen below. For the adventuring hiker, the waterfall is accessible through boggy ground via a 6mi (10km) in and out route. It crosses several rivers and over steep, rocky and rough terrain to reach the top of the waterfall. 

Completing the final stage of the westside of NC500, I travelled through Scourie known for its rocky bay and seaside cemetery, then from Laxford Bridge the route moved inland all the way into Durness.

Durness is the most northwesterly village in Scotland and marks the start of the northern route of the NC500. Here I explored Sango Bay with its golden sand and turquoise water surrounded by rocky cliffs. A short distance away was Smoo Cave that was formed by both the sea and a river. 

Smoo Cave was at the end of a very narrow and steep-sided inlet that I accessed via a set of stairs from the west side of the cave. 

At the bottom I crossed the stream via a wooden bridge and followed the path to the first chamber which measured 200ft (61m) long, 130ft (40m) wide and 50ft (15m) high. This section of the cave was carved by the sea gushing through the inlet. 

At the bottom I crossed the stream via a wooden bridge and followed the path to the first chamber which measured 200ft (61m) long, 130ft (40m) wide and 50ft (15m) high. This section of the cave was carved by the sea gushing through the inlet. 

To the west of the first chamber, is the second chamber which was carved by the freshwater river Allt Smoo. Here I could hear the roaring sound of a waterfall, a result of the river dropping through a sinkhole. The sinkhole can also be viewed from above where a small bridge was placed over the river. A trail to the east of the cave leads alongside the inlet at the top giving a spectacular view of the sheer cliff face of the inlet and the sea coursing through it.

Ready for a hearty meal and a good rest, I pulled up at the local pub and worked my way through a lamb shank with mashed potatoes and veggies. Finished off with an apple pie.