Stac Pollaidh, Scotland

 

Bearing north then northwest, I arrived at Stac Pollaidh and its dramatic rocky crest and the adjacent Loch Lurgainn. At only 2008ft (612m), Stac Pollaidh is a popular hiking destination. It has a circular route with a separate path to the northeast for the final ascent to the summit ridge. Whilst this last stretch is a steep climb it is still easily accessible. However, the true summit lies on the western side of the ridge which requires a high level of scrambling experience and a good head for heights due to the several rocky towers that must be climbed to reach the top.

As the Stac stands alone in a relatively flat landscape the views offered are breathtaking. To the north are Inverolly forest, Loch Sionasgaig and the neighboring peaks of Suilven and Cùl Mὸr, whilst to the south is Loch Lurgainn at the base of the mountain and the Summer Isles in the distance.

The interesting formation of the rocky stacks atop a smooth-sided mountain is a result of weathering during the Ice Age. Known as a nunatak, the summit ridge protruded above the ice sheet giving its rugged head, whilst below as the ice melted and flowed, it smoothed the sides of the mountain. 

Carrying on via the usual single track road, I had Loch Lurgainn as a companion until a small land formation separated it from my next companion Loch Bad a' Ghaill. At Badnagyle I took a right turn and weaved my way into Achmelvich. This settlement via a somewhat difficult single track road, off the main tourist road is worthy of a visit for its Blue Flag beach (awarded to beaches with pristine water) that also carries the Marine Conservation Society status for its marine protection area. 

Another curious feature is Europe's smallest castle locally known as the Hermit's Castle. It was built by an architect in the 1950s when according to lore he got fed up with the world and wanted to get away from it all. He spent six months building this concrete 3.8mi² (10m²) "castle" that barely stands about 8ft (2.4m) tall by bringing all the material by sea. It's questionable whether he obtained permission to erect the structure but it seemed that after spending only one weekend in it, he got up and left, abandoning it to the wild of the western highlands. Vandalized in the 1970s when its windows and door were destroyed, the little castle is now sometimes used for shelter, called a bothy in Scotland and provides much amusement to visitors whilst overlooking the Minch (a strait).

Now anyone who likes a good rock formation would be in awe of the 197ft (60m) tall sea stack known as the Old Man of Stoer. Accessed from the Stoer Lighthouse this lonely stack dates back well over 550million years. It is popular with rock climbers due to its height and varying levels of difficulty. I think of it as a long-lost cousin of the 12 Apostles on the Great Ocean Road, Australia.

Just past the village of Clashnessie is a big sandy beach in the bay of Clashnessie to while away the day, however, I was much more interested in the short walk upstream to see the 49ft (15m) tall waterfall. Tucked in-between the hills the fall coming from the a small lake above flowed over the rocky wall creating a curtain like appearance, landing on the rocks below and flowing its way into Clashnessie Bay.

Wrapping my day, I made my way into Drumbeg, a small village with a mere population of 100. Before settling in for the night I wondered up to the Drumbeg Viewpoint for the lovely views across Eddrachillis Bay to the north, Loch Drumbeg to the south and Quinag mountain range to the east. 

The Eddrachillis Bay is the site of one of the earliest known shipwrecks in Scotland. Following an archaeological survey it is believed that the wreck which consists of three iron cannons, a Delft tile (Danish tile) and remnants of a wooden hull, is of a mid-17th century trading vessel from northern Europe. This medieval wreck however, is not the only one resting on the seabed of the bay. The ex-liner Bermuda had the misfortune of catching fire not once but twice at which point it was beyond repair. Whilst undertow to the scrapyard both tow ropes snapped washing the ship onto rocks. Re-attaching the ropes and moving off the rocks the ropes parted again. This time the ship washed further inshore making it impossible to refloat. She has been left there since 1930 and today serves an occasional diving site.