Teotitlán del Valle, Mexico

Teotitlán del Valle is a small village nestled in the foothills of the Sierra Juárez mountains. It is predominantly inhabited by Zapotec indigenous people whose ancestors established the area around 1465. Weaving is at the heart of this community, where skilled artisans use traditional looms to produce exquisite wool rugs. With their vibrant patterns, these rugs feature Zapotec diamond-shaped motifs, each carrying different symbolic significance, depending on the weaver’s intention. They also produce modern art reproductions from famous artists like Diego Rivera, Picasso and Matisse.

To craft these rugs, artisans begin by washing the raw wool. The next step is carding, a process of brushing or combing the wool to remove impurities and create a uniform, smooth texture. The resulting yarn is spun into wool balls and dyed using natural materials, which provide a permanent and long-lasting effect. Examples of plants used for dyeing are needle bush for yellow to brown, indigo for deep blue, Mexican marigold for yellow and orange, and the cochineal insect for red and purple dyes.

To the Zapotecs, the cochineal red is like “red gold, the king of all colors”. The cochineal insect feeds on cactus leaves, especially those of the prickly pear cacti. Only the female cochineal insect can transform cactus sap into carminic acid, a vivid red pigment. Cochineal insects are collected from the cactus, ground into a powder, and added to boiling water in various quantities to achieve the desired red tone. Obtaining the right pH balance is very important for cochineal dye. Lemon juice is added to the dye bath to ensure the color bonds with the fiber. The color becomes permanent after boiling for 1-2 hours.

Initially, the rugs were woven for the rural market and mainly used as blankets by men. As trade opportunities expanded beyond the region, these blankets became sought-after items displayed on walls as tapestries or used as floor rugs. This shift prompted artisans to experiment, creating finer tapestries for decorative purposes.

Weaving is an integral economic activity in Teotitlán. Nearly 150 families operate family-run businesses, with some offering workshops and demonstrations for visitors. Traditionally, the men operated the large looms and dyed the fibers while women washed, carded, spun the wool, and prepared the dyes. Nowadays, most families have multi-generational involvement, with each member skilled in every aspect of the process.

During Día de Los Muertos, one tradition in Teotitlán involves the church bell ringing before 3 p.m., signaling the arrival of departed souls. Families gather inside their homes to light candles and incense before the ofrenda, taking a moment for reflection. In the evenings, they visit the cemetery to pay respects and remember their ancestors.

Run both ways and hurry back!