Thurso, Scotland

Heading towards Thurso, I made a small detour at Melvich to visit a farm where I could have a close encounter with the completely adorable Highland cows. These shaggy cows with their long coats and long horns originated in the Highlands. They are known for their hardiness and ability to withstand the harsh conditions of northern Scotland. Their woolly hair is double coated with an oily outer hair (the shaggy part) that covers a downy undercoat. 

They can forage up steep mountain areas by grazing and eating plants that other cattle avoid and they can dig through snow with their horns to find buried plants. Bulls can weigh up to 1,800 pounds (800kg) and the females up to 1,100 pounds (500kg). They have a docile disposition unless they are protecting their young and are highly photogenic. With their ruffled, shaggy look, and fringe over their eyes for protection, these "Heilan coos" in Scots or "Bò Ghàidhealach" in Gaelic are a much loved Scottish icon. 

About 5mi (8km) before Thurso, at the end of a dirt track near a working farm, are the remains of Brims Castle. An L-shaped, 3-storey tower house, it was the property of the Sinclair Clan since the 17th century and was occupied until the 1970s when the building's roof collapsed and the property was abandoned. A ghostly story of a ‘White Lady' is told to be of a woman who was disposed of by her lover by hiding her body inside the castle. On a lighter note though, King Charles III is credited for being the artist of a watercolor painting entitled Caithness (which is the region the castle is in) that was displayed at an online art show. A long-term resident of Thurso recognized the building in the painting as one of Brims Castle.

Thurso is the northernmost town in mainland Britain and it is located near Thurso Bay. Looking out north to the sea, I could make out the silhouette of the island of Hoy, one of the Orkney Islands and to the north east I could see the cliffs of Dunnet Head. The bay itself is open to the Atlantic swells, making the area an attractive spot for surfing. Thurso is host to the annual Scottish National Surfing Championships and has also hosted two World Championships for Kayak Surfing. The bay and the sandy beaches make Thurso a fabulous place for any water sports enthusiast.

Thurso is also home to one of the oldest churches in the country, Old Peter's Church. It dates back to the 1100s and was altered and expanded many times over the next 700 years. In 1832 the church was abandoned and since then, the roof has collapsed, leaving the interior open to the elements. Surrounded by a wall, the church and small graveyard was a quiet place for contemplation and peaceful meandering. 

A short distance from the town center bearing northeast is the ruins of the 19th century, Thurso Castle. Originally a 12th century Viking stronghold, the castle was obtained by the powerful Sinclair clan and during the mid-17th century the castle was largely rebuilt. Disputes ensued with the Campbell Clan, another powerful family, and the castle was attacked and badly damaged. Eventually, the dispute was settled, and the castle was repaired. By the mid-19th century, the castle went through further changes until it was fully demolished and rebuilt into a Gothic-style mansion. Unfortunately, the castle caught fire and sometime in the early 1950s, the roof was removed. A section of it is still habitable and it continues to be the home of the Sinclair family.

Run both ways and hurry back!