Gubeikou Wall, China

 

Gubeikou Wall is a dilapidated and unrestored part of the Great Wall. There are no parapets, no battlements and no paved paths. The wild vegetation envelopes the walls into the landscape and the towers are either in ruins or completely destroyed. 

The first wall was built in the 6th century and lengthened 800 years later. Under General Qi Jiguang’s supervision the Wall was further renovated and enhanced adding more towers and passes. A second layer of bricks was added beside the first making this section uniquely double-layered.

As a key pass between China and Mongolia, Gubeikou’s Wall stretched for 25mi (40km) and it consisted of a staggering 186 towers, spaced at 650ft (200m) intervals. The defence system also included 19 passes, 6 fortresses and 3 barbicans. 

Being the gateway to the capital, more than 130 battles were fought here during the dynastic periods. In the early 20th century, Gubeikou was once again embroiled in a fierce battle, except this time it was with the Japanese. In 1933, the Japanese attacked the Great Wall as part of their territorial expansion. Whilst territories and passes along the wall were being defeated, at Gubeikou Wall the Chinese were able to hold their position for several days by using the ramparts to move the soldiers along the Wall, just like their predecessors did centuries before. 

Gubeikou Wall is made up of two sections, Wohushan to the west and Panlongshan to the east. Between the two sections, in a valley, is a lake and Gubeikou town beside it. At the edge of Wohushan, next to each other, are two well-preserved towers, named ‘Sister Towers’. Some say it reminds them of two sisters holding hands when viewed from a distance. 

Past the village to the east is the entry to Panlongshan and its two watchtowers. The first one, General Tower, is a square shaped, two-storey building that was used as the commanding office. Now roofless, it has been exposed to the elements.  The second one is the 24-window Tower, the last watchtower on this section. Three storeys high, the first two levels used to have three windows per side adding up to 24, hence the name, but two sides of the building have now collapsed leaving the other two heavily supported by steel poles. 

Whilst the Wall continues on beyond 24-window Tower, it becomes a military zone and so inaccessible to travellers.