Mutianyu Wall, China

 

Mutianyu Wall is fully-rebuilt and in complete contrast to Gubeikou’s wild and ruinous appearance. Constructed out of slabs of granite, as per the original Ming design, Mutianyu is approximately 1.8mi (3km) long and has 23 watchtowers spaced at 330ft (100m) intervals. 

Mutianyu was first built during the 6th century but as with most of the Wall pre-Ming era, it no longer exists. During the early Ming period (14thC), the Wall was built a second time on the same site by General Xu Da.

Restored in 1986, Mutianyu is considered to be the best-preserved and the most scenic part of the Wall year-round. Located within Mutian Valley, with each passing season the Wall is a kaleidoscope of colour. In spring and summer, it is green and blossoming. In autumn it turns from crimson to amber to yellow. As the final leaves fall the white snow of winter ushers in. 

Heading east to west, the first tower was at the junction of three paths. Known as Big Corner Tower, it is placed in such a way that only the corners are visible from any angle, hence its name. 

After a couple of towers there is a steep descent that leads to Zhengguan Terrace. Made up of a large central tower flanked by two smaller ones, this type of build is a unique feature along the Wall. The three towers, connected by a 130ft (40m) long terrace, were used to store grains and station troops. 

The path meanders up and down from here on a beautifully restored Wall. The earthy coloured bricks with softer, worn edges seem much more at home with the landscape than the sharp-edged, dark grey colours of Huangyaguan. It is interesting to observe the different approaches to restoration projects. 

As the Wall snakes up and down the hills, I can’t help but liken it to a serpentine dragon lying across the mountains with the sawtooth path as the dragon’s scales.