The Heart of the Dragon, China

In ancient times, Yulin used to be the northernmost border of China. Various walls were built throughout the centuries with the earliest dating to the 5th century BC right up to the 15th century AD, covering the rule of several dynasties. Some preserved walls and forts can still be found in Yulin and nearby cities but the most significant is Zhenbeitai Tower, the largest watchtower on the Great Wall.

Located about 3mi (5km) north of Yulin, the tower is affectionately referred to as the heart of the dragon, with its head in Laolongtou (far east) and its tail in Jiayuguan (far west). 

Built in 1607 during the Ming Dynasty, its purpose was to protect the markets where Mongolians and local people could trade in peace. It was an important marketplace because highly prized Mongolian horses were traded along with cloth, silk, tea and salt. 

The watchtower is connected to the southwest corner of the wall. Tapering towards the top, the tower rises across four levels to a height of 98ft (30m) and average base width of 230ft (70m). Each level is narrower than the one below. The surrounding wall is around 550ft (167m) wide with the northwest corner linked to remnants of the Great Wall. Made of rammed earth, it is dressed in bricks and stone. 

From the top floor to the north is the Yellow River, flowing through the large Hongshixia Reservoir, heading south for hundreds of miles. 

Within the surrounding walls was Kuangong City, where officials used to entertain Mongolian messengers and discuss foreign affairs. During peacetime, Mongolians showered the emperors with gifts such as livestock and in return they would receive silk, cloth and medicine. It was a prosperous city in the past but very little is left today.

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