Barranco Camp, Kilimanjaro

Heading south across the saddle that connects Kibo and Mawenzi, I descended about 1312ft (400m) till I reached Maua Route. Taking a right turn at the junction, I joined the Horombo-Barafu Trail on an upward-westerly approach. Skirting one of Kibo’s lower ridges, the elevation gain from the junction was 3280ft (1000m), slowly inching toward the top of the ridge. As the local guides say in Swahili, “pole pole” meaning “slowly, slowly”.

At the top, I continued across the edge of the ridge to Barafu Camp to rest, refuel and rehydrate. Drinking 4-5 litres of water per day was not unusual. Typically, I had 2-3 litres during the trekking phase, a litre before dinner and another before I went to sleep. Staying well-hydrated helped with acclimatisation and altitude sickness. 

I traversed southwest for the next 2mi (3.2km) to Karanga Camp and then a northwest climb to Barranco Wall. Now, anyone on the southern or western trails up to Kibo would have had to contend with a 843ft (257m) scramble up this sheer cliff face, making it even more challenging to those afraid of heights. Barranco Wall was vastly different from the mostly gentle slopes of Kibo. The Wall was the result of a huge landslide that occurred about 100,000 years ago. Kibo was originally taller, almost 19,500ft (5944m), when portions of its summit pyramid broke away, slid down the southern face and created Barranco Wall. Although not a technical climb, the scrambling needed all four limbs to climb up. Because the path was narrow and cut back and forth along the rock face, solid placement of hands and legs throughout the climb was necessary.

Given that I took the circumnavigational route, I didn’t need to undertake this climb. I was pleased to take in the views from the top of the Barranco Valley below. However, I had to descend it to get to Barranco Camp for the night. It is an extra workout for my quads, hamstrings and knees.

Located in the Barranco Valley, the campsite was amidst a grove of giant dendrosenecios. Looking at them in abundance, I couldn’t help but see them as these small, compact hanging gardens atop tall, thick trunks of trees.

Wondering into the mess tent, I eyed the hearty beef ghoulash with vegetables and fresh bread, but not before I indulged in a comforting potato and leek soup. The banana fritters for dessert were also well received, along with my usual hot cuppa.