Leaving
Hillary Bridge behind at 9,514ft (2,900m) it was time for the next gripping
ascent. Travelling uphill on single-lane switchbacks demanded patience, slowly
shuffling along putting one step in front of the other, often needing to pull
aside to let the steady stream of traffic pass me by. Mules, trekkers, porters
and yaks were a common sight, breaking my already slow momentum. As I was
gaining elevation, I could feel the change in the air, a shortness of breath,
clearly indicating the change in altitude. I'd say more garlic soup was on the
horizon.
Two
hours later I arrived in Namche Bazaar, the largest village in the region.
Namche was located on a plateau, rising up the hillside at 11,285ft (3,440m).
On either side of the village were the 19,800ft+ (6,000m+) peaks of Kongde Ri
to the west and Thamserku to the east.
From
single-storey to triple-storey buildings, a plethora of teahouses and lodges
are readily available to service visitors and trekkers. Anyone who was up for a
pint of Guinness or a shot of Jameson or Teeling Irish whiskey would find it in
the centre of town at the remotest Irish Pub in the world.
Namche
is a trading centre, altitude acclimatization stop, gateway to the upper
Himalayan region and the final stop to purchase any gear needed for the
upcoming trek to Everest.
Resting
here overnight and taking the time to acclimatize, I stopped at a teahouse to
enjoy the national dish of Dal Bhat Tarkari, a lentil soup with steamed rice,
accompanied by seasonal vegetables and curried meat. It is a staple meal of the
Sherpa people eaten once or twice a day as a perfect combination of protein and
carbs for their physical workouts at high altitude.
Just
slightly out of town up a hill is the Sagarmatha National Park Museum with a
statue of Tenzing Norgay on the grounds. A worthy visit not just for the museum
but also the amazing views of the surrounding peaks.
I
spent a full day acclimatising with a nearby hike to Khumjung at an ascent of
about 2,000ft (600m). Khumjung is a village known for the Edmund Hillary School
which when built in 1961 only had one classroom but today teaches children up
to grade 10. Then onto Khumjung Monastery to check-out the mysterious yeti
scalp. The yeti is steeped in Himalayan folklore as a large monster which in
western culture is known as the Abominable Snowman.
Before
descending back to Namche, I grabbed a pastry and hot drink from the closest
bakery and whilst standing outside absorbing the mountainous vista I watched
the Sherpa women harvest the potato fields, a staple crop and one of the few
that can be grown at such high altitude.
One more night of rest in Namche. The long, slow, steady climb awaits.
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