Nice is the seventh most
populous city in France, second-largest city on the Mediterranean coast and
second-largest city in the region. With an airport a mere 4mi (7km) from the
city centre, Nice is the gateway to the French Riviera.
It has a plethora of
museums, festivals, a hilltop park with uninterrupted views of the sea, several
squares surrounded by buildings in red ochre, a 4mi (7km) beach alongside the
main promenade and the old port. So many options, where to begin?
Starting with the festivals, Nice is host to an annual jazz festival and the
Carnaval. The first Jazz Festival opened in 1948 with the likes of Louis
Armstrong, Velma Middleton and Earl Hines in attendance. The Nice Carnaval is
one of the major international carnival events alongside the ones in Rio de
Janeiro, Brazil and Venice, Italy. The very first Carnaval took place in 1873 -
although records indicate one as early as 1294 – with a parade of masquerades,
floats and competitions. The event has a special theme chosen each year where
artists create floats and figures made out of papier-mâché. They parade down
the street interspersed with street performers and musicians. One of the
highlights that is unique to Nice's carnival is the costumed actresses atop
floral floats showering the audiences with flowers. This Flower Battle as it's
called was started in 1876 as a way to exchange flowers and entertain tourists
but today it represents and honours the work of local producers.
Nice has long drawn
artists to its shores with the likes of Henri Matisse, Marc Chagall and
sculptor Sacha Sosno. Both Matisse and Chagall have museums dedicated to their
works. Matisse was known as the "King of Colour". Bedridden due to
illness he was forever on a quest to induce more and more colour into his
paintings making them as bright as possible. Loving birds and flowers, they are
found throughout his works. When he could no longer paint, he took to cut-out
collages arranging them into varying compositions creating murals and large
scale works. His greatest achievement was the stained glass windows on the
Rosaire Chapel which he gifted to his friend Monique, who was his nurse for a
period of time later becoming a nun.
In the heart of Nice
located amongst century-old buildings is the highly modern Contemporary Art
Museum and within its perfectly manicured garden sits Sosno's unique square
head sculpture. The cube-shaped sculpture with a chin is titled "Thinking
Inside the Box" and at 85ft (26m) tall it houses a library over three
floors. Sosno believed his art needed to leave a lot to the viewer's
imagination by creating works that were either having a void, imagine a torso
sculpture with a rectangular section missing from the centre of it, or the
opposite filled with "obstructive addition" such as the square head.
In his words: "I only do 50% of the work; other people have to finish
creating the sculpture".
To the east of the city
up on a hill is the historic Castle Hill park. Once home to a citadel that was
demolished in the 18th century, it now boasts panoramic views of Angels Bay,
the old port and the city skyline. Taking a stroll through the forested canopy
I reached the 18th century historic cemetery adjacent to the Jewish cemetery
and Holocaust memorial built atop the fortress' remains. Notable figures such
as Alfred Van Cleef jewellery and luxury watches designer; Emil Jellinek
creator of Mercedes trademark; and Gaston Leroux the author of the famous
Phantom of the Opera are buried here. Just below the top viewing platform is a
manmade waterfall and pond. Reaching the top I am afforded the quintessential
view of the beach, the azure sea, the promenade and the dense city alongside
it.
Descending from the park
and rounding it at the base, I came across a massive monument built into the
rocky hillside commemorating the 4,000 locals killed in WWI. Built in the
mid-1920s the memorial is 105ft (32m) tall. The large urn in the centre holds the
names of the 3,665 Niçois soldiers who died in the war.
Now to stroll into the old port, find an outdoor seat at a café with a view of the ocean and time to settle in with the tuna based Salade Niçoise because it was invented here paired with a glass of Provencal Rosé with its pretty salmon colour and crisp and refreshing taste. Bon appétit.
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