Saint Raphael, Cote d'Azur

 

At the base of Esterel Massif is the seaside town of Saint-Raphaël. With 22mi (36km) of coastline and numerous beaches and coves, this is one place to put up an umbrella, lay down a towel and while away the day soaking up the sun or swim in the azure sea.

First of all though, I had to explore the old "Quartier du Village", the old town where each day it hosts a flower and vegetable market. Offering Provencal food which is a region in south-eastern France, my tasting senses delighted in dipping croutons in a tapenade of black olives mixed with capers, anchovies, garlic and olive oil. Quenching my thirst with a refreshing Lime Perrier sparkling water I continued exploring. 

Not far from the market I came across the Romanesque church of San Raféu. Originally built in the 12th century, a tower was added a century later to represent power rather than any defensive purpose. The 129 steps up the tower presented me with a breath-taking panoramic view of the town, the sea and the Massif. The presbytery has been converted into a museum showcasing artifacts from underwater excavations along with items from the Palaeolithic era to the Iron Age (3.3mya – 332BC).

I made my way down to the marina tucked away between the beaches in the Bay of Saint-Raphaёl and promenaded around it to Le Jardin Bonaparte, a public park with views of the old port and the sea. At the tip of the park stands a 15ft (5m) bronze statue of Archangel Raphaёl, whom the town was named after, holding hands with little Tobias. Just like the statue, Raphaёl and Tobias appear in the town's coat of arms. The story told is that "Tobias was told by his father to collect money deposited with a relative, a merchant in a distant town; before he went he was to find a trustworthy companion. That companion was the Angel Raphael and together with Tobias' dog they set out". As such Raphaёl is seen as a symbol of companionship and protection.

With the sun setting and a full day of sightseeing, I located a sunbed with an umbrella near a restaurant and stretched out with an aperitif. Since it's revered in the South of France I chose a Pastis, an aniseed and liquorice flavoured spirit. This transparent dark yellow spirit turns a cloudy pale yellow colour once mixed with water which is the preferred way to drink it. Makes for an interesting looking drink which as they say "must be tried at least once".