After an hour of travelling from
Toulon-Hyères airport, I arrived in the once sleepy fishing village of Saint
Tropez. Located on a headland with narrow cobblestone streets, Saint Tropez
came to prominence in the second half of the 20th century with an influx of
artists and later wealthy socialites. Today it continues to draw wealthy
visitors and tourists.
Saint Tropez was named after Saint
Torpes of Pisa, the patron saint of sailors. Torpes was once a gladiator or
knight, it's not clear which one but he was in the service of Emperor Nero. He
turned to Christianity and when he refused to denounce it, the Emperor had him
decapitated. His head was tossed in the Arno river and his body along with a
rooster and dog were placed in a boat and sent out to sea. According to legend
the boat landed in Saint Tropez near the current sailors' cemetery. Found by a
holy woman, the town was named in his honour. The rooster and dog fled and both
had towns named after them – Cogolin and Grimaud.
The town is often considered as one of
three starting points of Côte d'Azur – the literal translation is Azure Coast.
In English we refer to it as the French Riviera. The Riviera runs the length of
the southeast corner of France through the well-known towns of Cannes and Nice,
the city-state Monaco and ending in Menton right at the border of France and
Italy.
The term Côte d'Azur was coined in
1887 by poet and writer, Stéphen Liégeard when he wrote of his experience on
the French Riviera describing the beautiful area and the deep azure colour of
the sea. The book titled La Côte d'Azur was printed in 1888. Said to have been
one of his greatest writings, Liégeard was awarded a Bordin Prize issued by the
French Academy of Sciences.
At the foothill of Saint Tropez's
harbour pier is Tour Portalot, a 15th century tower that was built along with
three others to fortify the town and protect its coast and port. Taking the
stairs to the top of the tower, I am enchanted by the expansive views of the
sea, as far as the eyes can see. The tower overlooks the Gulf of Saint Tropez,
busy with ferries and pleasure boats cruising in and out of the harbour.
To the west of the tower up on a hill
is the 17th century citadel. Built in a hexagonal shape with three turrets and
several cannons, the citadel can only be accessed via a drawbridge. With its
prime position on a hill, the citadel together with the towers built in the
port, protected the town and the coastline for nearly two centuries. When the
citadel couldn't withstand the strength of modern artillery shells its
protective and strategic role diminished and fell into disuse. Following
extensive renovations the citadel was opened as a maritime museum. Its rooftop
terrace provides sweeping aerial views of the town and Mediterranean Sea.
Before I departed Saint Tropez, I took
a short stroll to La Tarte Tropezienne Restaurant to check out its famous
pastry of the same name. When Alexandre Micka, a young Polish baker, created a
dessert using his grandmother's recipe in the 1950s, he could not have imagined
how iconic the dessert would become in Southern France. The dessert rose to
fame when Brigitte Bardot, in town to film a movie, was introduced to the
delectable pastry and is said to have fallen in love with it. Brigitte
suggested that the dessert be named after the town and as Brigitte grew in
popularity so did the dessert. The pastry name was eventually trademarked and
many stores were opened across Southern France.
An uncomplicated dessert the original version was made up of traditional French brioche that was split in half, filled with a vanilla and lemon cream, and topped with hard sugar crystals. Today the dessert is available in different shapes and sizes and occasionally with strawberries. More than 65 years later the cream filling remains a closely guarded secret and continues to be made with traditional methods.
A new challenge with much better scenery than the Route 66! I'm traveling with my friend who also went to London with me.
We are calling ourselves "The Getaway Girls" when we do a virtual challenge together.
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It's so good to see you here . . .