Royal National Park, NSW Australia

Shortly after crossing the Sea Cliff Bridge, I arrived at the southern end of the Royal National Park. Inaugurated in 1879, it is Australia’s first national park and the world’s second oldest after Yellowstone in the United States. Originally known only as National Park, in 1955, it was renamed after Queen Elizabeth II passed by in a train on her Australian tour. 

I started with the Coastal Track, excited to explore the rugged cliffs and native bushland. My first destination was the Figure Eight Pools at the base of the cliffs, which required quite a bit of backtracking to get to it but was worth the effort. As the name suggests, the pools, carved out of the relentless pounding of the waves, were indeed in the shape of the number 8. The water was crystal clear. Tempted, I stepped in for a refreshing dip. 

I carried on, sometimes above the cliffs, sometimes at sea level on a beach, until I reached Eagle Rock, a fabulous rock formation jutting out into thin air, which, when seen from a certain angle, indeed resembled an eagle’s head. Nearby, the Curracurrong Falls plunged 328ft (100m) into the ocean below. 

The track followed close enough to the cliff’s edge, giving me the most incredible panoramic views of the ocean and the shrub-covered landscape. As I marvelled at the sights before me, I stumbled upon Wattamolla Falls, cascading into the emerald-coloured water below. A viewing platform at the top gave me a perfect vantage point to admire its beauty, but I was unable to resist the allure of the falls. I descended to the base, where I indulged in a ‘waterfall shower’, letting the cascading water wash over me in a moment of utter joy. 

At Marley, I turned inland for a hike on the Marley Track, a rugged and narrow trail through heathland. It was a solitary and tranquil experience, allowing me to immerse myself fully in the natural surroundings. Along the way, I kept my eyes peeled, hoping to come across the Gymea lily, a magnificent Australian native plant known for its spectacular red flowers and unique appearance. 

From Marley Track, I connected with the Winifred Falls Track, which led me through dense forestry of eucalyptus trees and down a steep descent to the pools at the base of the falls. Winifred Falls, though not particularly tall, was quite attractive as the water gently tumbled over an overhanging slab of rock. While resting, I was delighted to spot a sulphur-crested cockatoo. These striking birds, native to Australia, are known for their bright white plumage and distinctive yellow crest, which they raise when alarmed or excited. They are highly intelligent and social birds, often seen in noisy flocks. It was a treat to observe it in its natural habitat.

From here, I followed the trail a little further until I reached the suburban outskirts of Sydney, heading toward Botany Bay. 

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