As I wound along the winding coastal road, I veered inland again, arriving at Bombah Point, the gateway to Myall Lakes National Park. I could smell the now-familiar scent of eucalyptus and looked forward to exploring a series of lakes within the park and extending further into the Great Lakes region.
Within the park are a series of interconnected freshwater lakes – Bombah Broadwater, Boolambayte Lake, and Myall Lake. As the lakes are connected, this was a fabulous opportunity to explore them on a small boat, meandering from one to the other. When I reached Myall Lake, the largest of the three, I found the water to be tannin-coloured, a result of decomposed plant material from the surrounding wetlands. Despite its tea-like colour, I was compelled to hop in for a refreshing dip. The water was calm and crisp on my skin.
The shore was lined with native shrubs and trees, such as the paperbark trees with their distinctive peeling bark, thriving in wetland areas, and the Casuarina trees, also known as she-oaks, with their needle-like foliage and sturdy trunks, which help prevent erosion by stabilising the soil. A favourite flowering shrub is the Banksia because of its hardy cone-like flowering, appearing in varying shades from brown and red to orange and gold.
Myall Lake is also part of the Great Lakes region due to its proximity to Smith Lake, separated by a narrow piece of land, and Wallis Lake, the largest of the three. With so many waterways, it’s not surprising that fishing is a significant pastime in the area. A line can be thrown in from the beach, a lake or a river and may be lucky enough to catch bream, whiting, Australian salmon or mullet. While waiting for the fish to hook, sit back, relax, and look out for the birds occupying the wetlands. One example is the brolga, a huge bird from the crane family with a wingspan of up to 7.5ft (2.2m). They are easily recognised by the band of red skin atop their small head. They are also known for their unusual ritual dance when searching for a mate. Cultures like China have stylised these moves to incorporate them into their kung fu martial arts (think of the crane kick in the 1984 Karate Kid movie). Closer to home, the Aboriginal people have incorporated it into their own dance rituals. Sydney-based author Rod Clement was inspired to illustrate and write the children’s book Olga the Brolga, telling the story of a keen bird just wanting to dance.
The best place to finish my exploration was in the twin towns of Forster and Tuncurry at the end of the Great Lakes. Looking for a place to eat, I settled on another Aussie favourite, the chicken parmigiana. If you haven’t had one, it’s a must-try. It’s a chicken schnitzel topped with tomato sauce and melted cheese and served with a good dose of hot chips.
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