Byron Bay, NSW Australia

Along the NSW coastline is a town like no other, and it is the ideal location to finish my journey. Byron Bay, renowned worldwide, is a magnet for free-spirited hippies, backpackers, travellers, and Hollywood celebrities, some of whom have even made it their home.

Recognised as the traditional lands of the Arakwal, Minjungbal and Widjabul people, who have lived here for 22,000 years, Captain James Cook anchored in Cape Byron, naming it after Vice-Admiral John Byron, known for his attempt to circumnavigate the world in the 18th century. Incidentally, John Byron is the grandfather of Lord Byron, the author of the famous poem Don Juan.

Byron Bay's early days were like many other settlements, with timber as the main industry, followed by farming, fishing, whaling, and a brief stint in gold mining. However, it was the 1960s that truly marked a turning point for the town, as longboard surfers discovered the exhilarating waves around the cape, putting Byron Bay on the map.

During this time, hippies and those seeking alternative lifestyles flocked to the area, drawn by its natural beauty and laid-back atmosphere. This era defined Byron Bay as a haven for free spirits and creatives. Yet, as the 1980s approached, development gained momentum, attracting affluent travelers and shifting the town's character toward luxury accommodations and upscale amenities.

It's hard to believe that this town, with its population of just 5000 permanent residents, hosts over 2 million visitors annually. But as I explore the town and head up to Cape Byron Lighthouse (c. 1901), I understand why people from all walks of life are drawn to this coastal haven.

Certainly, the sweeping views from the lighthouse are absolutely breathtaking. I accessed several vantage points via a well-paved track. I walked through the rainforest of Bangalow palms and ancient burrawangs (cycad), then down to Wategos Beach to watch the surfers before heading to the most easterly point of the Australian mainland.

Back at the lighthouse, I took a moment to appreciate the structure and its role as a navigational landmark along the NSW coast. It provided safe passage to marine vessels as they plied the waters, trading up and down the coast. I eased into a weathered bench, the sun warming my face, and reflected on how far I had come since I began my journey in Eden. My travels led me through a tapestry of national parks, endless stretches of beaches and charming coastal towns. With each step, I catalogued a long list of native flora and fauna, illustrating the wonderfully rich land and the diversity of its inhabitants.

As I take out my packed lunch of none other than an Aussie classic, the Vegemite sandwich, and pour a cuppa from a flask, I plug in my earphones to capture the last essence of Australian culture through another classic, the 1981 Men at Work song Down Under.