Aksu, located at the western edge of Xinjiang, shows a clear blend of Chinese and Central Asian influences. As we move further into the region, where the Uyghur population makes up more than 70% of the residents, a clear shift from Han Chinese culture becomes evident. The Uyghurs, a Turkic ethnic group with deep historical roots in the region, have traditionally inhabited a series of oases scattered across the Taklamakan Desert. These oases were sometimes independent states but, at other times, were controlled by various powers, such as China, the Mongols, and the Tibetans. Over time, the Uyghurs gradually embraced Islam starting in the 10th century, with many of their practices deeply rooted in Islamic traditions. This has shaped a distinct blend of Uyghur culture, marking a cultural transition as we move further west.
The vast Taklamakan
Desert forms the southern border of Aksu, bounded by mountains on three sides
and the Gobi Desert to the east. Stretching 620mi (1,000km) long and 250mi
(400km) wide, with dunes rising to 300ft (91m), it is one of the largest and
driest deserts in the world. The climate varies widely, with summer
temperatures soaring to 114°F (45.6°C), while winter temperatures can plunge
below -4°F (-20°C). The desert receives less than an inch (2.5 cm) of rainfall
per year, and over the last 1,000 years, it has expanded by a further 62mi
(100km) to the southwest.
While the Taklamakan
conjures images of dryness and desolation, China's longest inland river, the
Tarim River (821mi/1,321km), flows right through it, providing crucial support
to the ecosystem. This includes the 60-million-year-old native poplar forests,
which continue to thrive despite the harsh conditions, although for a time,
they faced environmental challenges due to human activities and reduced water
flow.
Two branches of the
ancient Silk Road once skirted the Taklamakan Desert—one to the north and one
to the south. Travelling around this unforgiving expanse was incredibly
dangerous, as merchants and caravans faced extreme temperatures, relentless
sandstorms, and constantly shifting dunes that could erase paths without
warning. The scarcity of water increased the risks, making oases essential for
survival. Settlements near reliable water sources became crucial waypoints,
offering shelter, supplies, and guidance to weary travellers. Local guides were
especially valuable with their deep knowledge of the desert's shifting
landscape and how to navigate the treacherous terrain.
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