Cumbres Pass, Continental Divide

The hike from the Chama River Canyon to Cumbres Pass was my first introduction to the kind of landscapes I’ll enjoy when hiking the CDT in Colorado. Very soon after passing O’Keeffe’s Ghost Ranch, the desert landscape transitioned into woodland. I followed the streams and mountain valleys, enjoying the cool air, the gentle sunlight and the strong, fresh breeze.

This section was moderately challenging, and though the abundant shade made up for it, I was shocked to see large drifts of snow still clinging to the cliffsides. It’s one of the amazing things about hiking this great trail; the landscape, the weather, everything changes so quickly from one day to the next. When you’re walking through a desiccated, blood-red desert valley, it’s hard to imagine that the next day you could be tackling a snowdrift, yet here we are.

I arrived at Cumbres Pass, a high alpine pass that lies over 10,000 ft (3048 m) above sea level. The pass marks the border between New Mexico and Colorado, and is a popular photo opportunity for hikers, as the huge, expansive views capture the contrasting landscapes of both states.

I sat here for a moment, mulling over my time in New Mexico. My thoughts turn back to O’Keeffe’s painting ‘Rams’ Head, White Hollyhock-Hills’. Now, I think of how the ram’s skull reflects the fear I had of this remote desert section of the CDT, of the pitiless power of the landscape, its dangers and hardships always hovering above me. When I started this journey, I dreaded walking miles in the baking heat, my throat parched. I worried about getting lost, stepping on a snake, or simply becoming bored of the barren desert. Instead, I have discovered a real land of enchantment, an otherworldly landscape both strange and beautiful. Now, after experiencing the geography, the wildlife, the endless horizons and the star-flecked nights of this truly unique state, I understand why O’Keeffe found it so special.